Converting your chlorine pool to saltwater, DIY in a weekend
Conversion is easier than most pool stores will tell you. Buy a chlorinator, install inline, add salt, and you’re done. Here’s what to buy, what to install, and what to expect.
Last updated: 2 June 2026
Converting an existing chlorine pool to saltwater is one of the easier residential pool upgrades. The pool itself doesn’t change, same plumbing, same filter, same surface. You’re adding a single piece of equipment (the salt chlorinator) inline with your existing return plumbing, and adding salt to the water. Total cost: $1,800–$3,500. Total time: a weekend.
This guide covers what to buy, how to install (DIY-able for most owners with basic plumbing skills), and what to expect for the first month after conversion.
Is your pool a good candidate for conversion?
| Pool feature | Conversion-friendly | Caution required |
|---|---|---|
| Pool surface | Fibreglass, vinyl liner, modern concrete | Old concrete/plaster < 1 year cured |
| Plumbing | PVC standard | Copper plumbing (salt corrodes copper) |
| Heater | Modern titanium heat exchanger | Older copper-coil heaters |
| Pool light | Modern LED with stainless fixtures | Old metal fixtures (galvanic corrosion risk) |
| Salt sensitivity | None reported | If property is on tank water with conservation requirements |
Most Australian pools built since 2000 are conversion-ready. The main risks are older copper plumbing (uncommon in pool returns but possible in heater coils) and very old plaster that’s started to break down.
What you need to buy
The salt chlorinator
Size for your pool capacity, plus 30% oversize for headroom. See our SWG sizing guide for details. Australian-available brands:
- Hayward AquaRite series, common, reliable, $1,800–$2,400 for a typical residential unit.
- Pentair IntelliChlor IC40, premium with diagnostics, $2,500–$3,500.
- Astralpool VX series, Australian-designed, self-cleaning option, $2,200–$3,200.
- Zodiac TRi or eXO, French-engineered, smart-home integration on premium models, $2,400–$3,400.
Pool salt
Calculate your target. For a 50,000 L pool aiming for 3,400 ppm salt, you need: 3,400 × 50,000 ÷ 20,000 = 8.5 bags of 20 kg pool salt (assuming starting salt level of 0). Most chlorine pools already have ~500 ppm salt from years of chlorine additions, so adjust down accordingly.
Tools
- PVC primer + glue (Type R or similar)
- PVC cutter or hacksaw
- Adjustable wrench
- Tape measure
- Multimeter (for the electrical connection)
Installation overview
The chlorinator installs inline in the return plumbing, between the filter outlet and the pool return jets. Two components:
- The cell housing, installs in the return PVC line. Water flows through.
- The controller, wall-mounted near the pump, with a cable running to the cell.
Step-by-step install
- Turn off pool pump and isolate power.
- Drain water from the return line at the cell install location.
- Cut the return line to length, typically 200mm short of the cell length.
- Install unions or quick-release fittings on both ends. This is essential, you’ll need to remove the cell annually for cleaning.
- Glue the cell housing into the unions with PVC primer and glue.
- Mount the controller near the pump in a dry location. Australian residential install typically uses the existing pump shed or an external weatherproof enclosure.
- Run the controller power cable to a 240V outlet. Use a qualified electrician if installing a new outlet.
- Run the cell cable from controller to cell. Don’t kink or stretch.
- Test water tightness by re-priming the pump and running for 15 minutes. Check all connections.
- Add salt to bring the pool to target ppm.
- Run pump for 24 hours with chlorinator OFF to dissolve and distribute salt.
- Verify salt level with a test strip or drop kit.
- Turn on the chlorinator. Start at 50% output. Test FC daily for the first week.
Electrical work: if installing a new 240V outlet for the controller, hire a qualified electrician. Pool equipment safety codes in Australia require RCD protection and proper earth-bonding. Don’t shortcut this.
First month after conversion, what to expect
Week 1: Salt distribution and cell breaking in
Salt fully dissolves in 24–48 hours with pump running. The cell needs a few days of operation to reach steady output. Test FC twice daily for the first week. Expect chlorine to be uneven for the first 3–5 days, keep liquid chlorine on hand for top-ups.
Week 2: pH drift starts
This is when most converted owners notice the saltwater-specific pH drift upward. Plan to add muriatic acid weekly from this point.
Week 3: CYA stabilises
If your old chlorine pool used trichlor, you likely have CYA at 50–100 ppm already. If you used liquid or cal-hypo, CYA may be near zero, add stabiliser to bring it to 60–70 ppm for SWG operation.
Week 4: Settled operation
By week 4, you should be running with chlorinator output at 50–70%, adding salt occasionally, adding acid weekly, and testing weekly. The conversion is complete.
Common conversion mistakes
- Buying an undersized chlorinator. Sized for “your pool” without considering bather load or climate. Always oversize by 30%.
- Skipping unions on the cell housing. Means the cell can’t be easily removed for annual cleaning.
- Adding salt with the chlorinator running. Undissolved salt creates a localised high-conductivity zone that damages the cell. Always run pump for 24 hours with chlorinator OFF after adding salt.
- Using iodised salt or rock salt. Both damage cells. Use pool-grade NaCl only.
- Not raising CYA to SWG target. Many converted pools run with CYA at 30 ppm (chlorine pool target). SWG needs 60–80 ppm.
- Running chlorinator output too high. 100% all season wears cells out in 3 years. Use lower output + longer pump runtime.
Sources & references
- Trouble Free Pool, ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
- ANSI/APSP-11, Water Quality Standards in Public Pools
- AS 3633-1989, Private swimming pools (Australian Standard)
Frequently asked questions
Can I convert my chlorine pool to saltwater myself?
Yes, for most owners with basic plumbing skills. The conversion is mainly cutting PVC and installing the cell housing inline. The electrical install (controller power) may require a qualified electrician depending on existing outlets.
How much does it cost to convert a chlorine pool to saltwater?
$1,800–$3,500 in Australia, depending on cell brand and whether you need electrical work. Most cost is the chlorinator itself ($1,500–$3,000) plus salt ($150–$250 for initial salt-up) plus minor plumbing ($50–$100).
Will my pool surface be damaged by converting to saltwater?
Not at the salt levels used in residential saltwater pools (3,000–4,500 ppm, much less salty than ocean water at 35,000 ppm). Fibreglass, vinyl liner, and modern concrete all tolerate saltwater pool levels indefinitely. Older concrete plaster (15+ years) may show slightly accelerated wear, usually not problematic.
Do I need to drain my pool before converting?
No. Most chlorine pools already have some salt in them (~500 ppm from years of chlorine product additions). You add salt on top of the existing baseline to reach the SWG target. No drain needed.
Will my saltwater pool taste salty?
Marginally. Pool salt at 3,000–4,500 ppm is about 10× less salty than seawater. Most people can’t taste it; some can detect a faint salty taste. Roughly the salinity of a teardrop.
Will the Water Test Calculator app help during conversion?
Yes. The app tracks the conversion process, salt level over time, CYA buildup, FC stabilisation, and prompts the right adjustments at each phase. Launching on iOS and Android in approximately 10 days.
Get the launch alert + free checklist
Water Test Calculator launches on iOS and Android in ~10 days. Free with ads. Premium unlocks unlimited history, smart notifications, and ad-free testing.